Diary from a Aeolian Holiday
This week, instead of a recipe, I thought about sharing with you some magic moments from last year’s trip to Sicily.
I went to the Aeolian Islands, or Isole Eolie, one of the most enchanted places of the Mediterranean.
The Eolie (or Lipari) islands are a group of 7 volcanic islands located between Naples and North Sicily. They are wild and beautiful.
I have been here multiple times and I love the primitive feeling you have by being in contact with strong natural elements of volcanoes, lava, hot springs, and the deep blue of the coastline.
Of course, everyday was punctuated by… wonderful Sicilian food and wine.
I chose to stay in Vulcano and used it as a base to visit the rest of the Islands.
Now… you can tour with me!
Mt. Etna welcomes you at Catania's airport
Vulcano island was our home for the week. Vulcano is a pretty special island...
As soon as you get close to the port of Vulcano, you will smell the sulphur exhalations.
Close to the port are open air mud bath, which can help to cure many diseases.
The beach close by is characterized by vapor exhalations as well. It's like being in a gigantic jacuzzi... You swim among hot bubbles!!!
One of our first stop was for gelato. But then one thing lead to another... Note that the gelato here is served in the typical Sicilian brioche. Oh, I could live on this!
Many stores sell volcanic stones. My kids were intrigued!
Parmigiana di melanzane is hands down one of my favorite dishes. Deep fried eggplant layered with tomato sauce, mozzarella and parmigiano-reggiano. An easy find in Sicily!
And of course lunch had to include arancini di riso. I prefer the ones with meat sauce and peas filling.
Many paths give you an enchanting view of the Vulcano
We stayed by the black sand beach. Here is the amazing view from that beach... You can see the profiles of Filicudi and Alicudi islands.
Other easy beach meals include Schiacciata, a sort of wood burning oven flat bread, filled with ingredients and placed in the oven for a second time. I chose the Norma, with fried eggplants and ricotta salata, and the Aeolian, with capers and anchovies. Another specialty is pane cunzato, similar to a Frisella: hard bread with tomatoes, basil, onions oregano, capers, olives and almonds. And, of course, the best extra virgin....
At the fishmonger's... Too bad I am not renting a house!!!
Vulcano offers some amazing views. Here a view over the islands of Lipari and Salina.
One of the peak of this trip was definitely a hike to the top of the Vulcano's volcano. Is dormant yet full of activity. And it's an easy hike to do with kids. I would suggest to climb with a guide (mine was Dario, and I would totally recommend him!) .
An excellent dinner I had in Vulcano included sautéed eggplant and a very interesting pasta with tuna, finocchietto (local fennel), almonds and raisins.
First visit: Lipari. Lipari is the largest of the islands and full of shops, museums and restaurants. This is the view of Marina Corta's port.
The oldest part of town is truly charming
Lipari also offers amazing translucent waters. Here is the beach by the pomice cave.
Lipari offers a truly interesting and well kept archeological museum full of Greek and Roman treasures. Do not miss it!!!
Something that fascinates me is the richness of ceramic floors in the island. Here are a few examples.
Lipari is the probably the best island for shopping. Ceramics are of course a huge part of the local culture.
I totally fell in love with this pasticceria. Guess why!!!!
The best shops for food and spices are definitely in Lipari!
Great shop with many cheeses from Sicily such as caciocavallo, pecorino con il pepe, provola. The visit should always end with a glass of Malvasia, while waiting for the boat to come back.
Visit to Alicudi island. The Island is the smallest and the only mean of transportation is... mule! Electricity also arrived only a few years ago. Here I had the most amazing meal...
This pasta was simply unbelievable. Made with capers, fresh tomatoes and bread crumbs.
Pasta with fresh tomatoes and fish...Amazing!
Crudo di pesce, or sushi the Italian way! With marinated anchovies, tuna, octopus and some unbelievable small shrimp - about half an inch- they call them di nassa because they fish them with a special hour glass shaped net, named nassa. Crunchy and super sweet. So delicious!!!
Salina is the greenest of the Eolie island and where most of the Malvasia is produced. Very beautiful island too!
In Salina I had an amazing lunch with pasta all'isolana (with fish, eggplant, fresh tomatoes capers and olives), calamari fritti and stuffed squid!
Filicudi is just breathtaking beautiful and offers some of the most amazing transparent waters and views
Panarea is considered the chic island. It's also very beautiful...
In Panarea you can find the most refined shops, including hand-made sandals. And, the best (really!!!) granita!!!
Stromboli is just a magic island. Stomboli's volcano is active, with constant lava eruptions. I went there many years ago and hiked to the top of the volcano. My visit was too short this time, and also the hike to the top of the crater was out of my kids' league. But the view from up there is one of the most amazing I have ever seen in my life. I will be back!!!
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June 9, 2015